Brazil Photo Essay

Robin Esrock shares some of his favourite photographs from Brazil, along with his thoughts about why the country is so special.

MUSIC AND DANCE

Rhythm permeates Brazil.   Sometimes I catch myself listening to traffic, and even it carries a tune. Teenagers listen to the same classic bossa nova songs their parents do. MBP, modern Brazilian pop, incorporates many different genres.  Samba is Brazil’s most famous dance, but there are dozens of others, like forro, funk, and axé (pronounced ash-ay), which turns nightclubs into well-choreographed musicals.  Travellers don’t need to know each dance, nor the music that accompanies it.  Your enthusiasm and willingness to enjoy the rhythm goes a long way.

WILDLIFE

The bio-diversity in Brazil is staggering.  More than one-third of all the world’s species live in the Amazon, including 3000 species of fish.   In the state of Matto Grosso do Sul, birdwatchers discover paradise in the Pantanal, the world’s largest wetland.   Jungle safaris have brought me up close and personal with piranhas, anacondas, and this weary caiman. 
HISTORY

Although archaeologists keep discovering new mysteries in the Amazon, Brazil’s history is mainly focused on its colonial past.   The country was tossed and torn in battles between the Spanish, Dutch, British, and Portuguese, who give the country its language.  In the northeast cities of Recife and Salvador (pictured), blackened churches and buildings recall a turbulent time of plantations, wars, religion, wealth, and slavery.
BEACHES

Swing a cat in Brazil and it will land suntanned on a white sandy beach.   With nearly 7500km of coastline and glorious tropical weather, Brazilians have every reason to love their beaches.   The most famous are the long sandy strips in Rio’s Copacabana and Ipanema.   Cabo Frio has the squeaky white sand of the Caribbean.  My favourite is Lopez Mendes, a slice of paradise on the island of Ilha Grande.   Northeast beaches in Natal, Jericoacoara and Morro Do Sao Paulo are well worth travelling for. 
CARNAVAL

Nothing quite prepares you for the spectacle of Carnaval each February.  The entire country explodes into celebration, ranging from massive parades inside Rio’s Sambadrome to chaotic street parties and festivals.  Carnaval brings Brazilians together across the socio-economic divide, especially after the chaos and restrictions of the pandemic.  What was once Catholic ritual of giving up meat for Lent, is now the biggest, most intense annual party you’ll find anywhere.  Believe the hype.  
ADVENTURES

I travel for a living, and after 115 countries on 7 continents, I’m always on the lookout for activities that are unique.  There are plenty of places you can climb, or raft, or even fish for piranhas.  Capoeira at sunset? Favela funk parties?    Joining a parade in the Sambadrome – that’s Brazil.  One of my favourite discoveries has been Rio do Plata outside of the eco-tourism hotspot of Bonito.  Float with the current for three hours down a crystal clear stream, snorkelling amongst thousands of freshwater fish.  Simply Braziliant!
FOOTBALL

The official religion of Brazil is Roman Catholicism.  The actual religion is football.   The country has won the World Cup a record five times.  The game is played and followed on the beaches and streets, in clubs and parks.   The Brazilian style of play is beautiful to watch – full of flamboyant tricks and skill that bamboozle Europe’s clinical style.   A visit to Maracana Stadium in Rio, which holds the official record for a single game attendance (199,854 people at the 1950 World Cup Final) will convert you way before the final whistle blows.
NATURAL AND CULTURAL WONDERS

I’m not a fan of the commercially inspired marketing campaign that was “The New Seven Wonders”.   Some might argue that the statue of Christ the Redeemer, a remarkable landmark much like the Eiffel Tower or Statue of Liberty, doesn’t belong on a list with the Great Wall of China or Petra.   But Brazilians got behind the vote and today it is semi-officially regarded as a wonder of our world.   Personally I believe the view of Rio de Janeiro, among the world’s most beautiful cities, is the true wonder here.   Down south, Iguazu Falls was an easy and fitting finalist for the Natural Seven Wonders of the World.
FOOD

Caju? Cupuaçu? Pitanga? Jaboticaba?   Brazil is blessed with natural tropical fruit rich in vitamins and taste.  People here have long enjoyed the nutritional benefits of acai, even as it becomes a wonder berry in hipster cafes worldwide.  Meanwhile it’s a meat fest in the churrascaria, a uniquely Brazilian concept.  Each diner receives a card. The green side means more, the red side means stop.   Waiters attack with different cuts of meat until you burst.   Staples like beans, rice and farofa (manioc flour) accompany most dishes.   Cheap eats like bolinhos de bacalhau (fish and potato balls) and coxinha de galinha (chicken and potato balls) offer deep fried perfection.
PEOPLE

Those who live in the cold northern hemisphere know that special feeling on the first day of summer.   Finally we can put on shorts or that summer dress, feel a warm breeze on our legs, and appreciate that the best time of year has arrived. On that day, we walk around smiling, easily relaxed, infused with positive energy.   In Brazil I have observed locals of all classes, watching crowds on beaches and buses, in malls, restaurants, the slums and on the streets.   Many of them have that same twinkle in their eye, an uplifting smile on their face.  It’s the first day of summer, every single day. 

The Best Cities to Explore by Bicycle

There’s no better way to explore a city than by bicycle. You get to see more, smell more, hear more and feel more than any other mode of transport, discovering hidden gems all along the way. But all cities are not created equal when it comes to bike discovery. Hills, traffic, pollution and other challenges are best suited for feet, cars, buses and trams. With a warm sun in the sky, here’s our pick of the best cities to hit the pedals.

1. Amsterdam

In a city with 780,000 residents and over 600,000 bicycles, you know the riding is good, especially in the 17th century city centre, where the narrow lanes and canals don’t really suit cars anyway. Amsterdam has over 400km of bike trails, making it easy and safe to get around, with ample bike racks to secure your bike. This is important to note since there are more bikes stolen per year than bikes in the city – maybe they should just make them all communal! There are plenty of bike rental companies about for visitors, located at hubs by Dam Square, Liedseplein and the Central Station. For about 8 euro a day, you can explore the city, or pedal into the countryside to explore old windmills and farms. Best of all, the city is located just two metres above sea level, so it’s flat all the way.

2. Portland

With over 100km of bike paths, 48km of low-traffic bike boulevards and 283kms of bike lanes, it’s no wonder Portland touts itself as the bike capital of the United States. It holds the country’s highest bike commuter rate, about 10%, and is renowned for its citywide bike programs. Visit the Saturday Market or popular Farmer’s Market for a pitstop of artisan cheese, or pedal up to the Powell Butte Nature Park for a panoramic view of the city. Portland is also known as the City of Bridges, many of which have safe bike lanes. As for the weather, cyclists can rest easy with covered bike parking, like the ones found outside the Hawthorne Boulevard Shopping District.

3. Copenhagen

One summer in Copenhagen, I learned how to ride a bike while drinking beer. Not behaviour to be encouraged, but in a city with 350km of bike paths, and 20km of safely designated bike lanes, I could at least count on avoiding cars. About 40% of the city cycle every day, along bike lanes with their own signal systems, and privileges like going down one-way streets. Copenhagen launched the world’s first communal bike-share program, which has since spread to various cities around the globe, so much so that copenhagenization is a term used in urban planning. Bicycles are the fastest and easiest way to explore the relatively flat city, taking in sights like the Tivoli, the Danish Royal Palaces, and the colourful Nyhavn canal.

4. Berlin

Berlin has a vibrant bike culture. 7 out of 10 residents own a bike , accessing over 800km of bike paths including designated lanes, off-road routes and shared pedestrian/bike sidewalks. What’s more, there are also Fahrradstrassen, roads restricted to bikes and vehicles that travel under 30 km/hr. The public bike program is handy for tourists and locals, who can use their cellphones to unlock the public bikes. Bike rentals are available around the city. Make sure to get a map to explore the various neighbourhoods around the city, or follow the popular Berlin Wall Trail along the old Cold War relic. Like most of the best bike cities, Berlin has no steep hills.

5. Bogota

Every Sunday, visitors to the Colombian capital of Bogota will find major thoroughfares devoid of cars. Welcome Ciclovia, a local tradition that allows cyclists, rollerbladers and pedestrians to roam about the city in safety. The weekly event has proved so popular it has since spread to other cities in South America. Cyclists come together across socio-economic divides in an eco- transportation utopia, a far cry from the city’s unfortunate reputation for crime. While popular tourist spots like Plaza de Bolivar, Palacio de Nariño, and La Catedral are located in hilly Candelaria, Ciclovia is still a great opportunity to experience the heart of the city.

6. Vancouver

Vancouver continues to expand its bicycle lane program, with several new arteries opening up under its current mayor (who famously bikes to City Hall). The city boasts 300km of on and off-road bike routes. If you’re visiting, head down to Denman Street where you can pick up a rental at Cycle BC or Spokes Rentals. From there, you’re just seconds away from the city’s star bicycle attraction, the 22km long Seawall. Flat, paved, and with stunning views of the city and local mountains, you can follow the Seawall around Stanley Park, or continue towards Granville Island, where a handy bike ferry can shepherd you across the inlet.

7. Vienna

Ah, Vienna! Austria’s capital city is large and spread out, but the UNESCO World Heritage historical centre is easy to explore by bike, with most attractions accessible within a half hour. There are ample bicycle lanes and paths, although a map will certainly help you navigate some of the city’s notoriously odd bike paths. Hardcore cyclists often arrive via a bicycle route that follows the Danube from Germany, through Austria and onto Hungary. Fortunately, the rest of us can hire City Bikes (there are over 100 stations in the city) and explore the Sightseeing Bicycle Path Ringstrasse around the old city, where we can enjoy views of the Opera, Burgtheatre and Parliament.

8. Soweto

The largest township in South Africa offers some remarkable guided bicycle tours. While neighbouring Johannesburg has a reputation for violent crime, visitors to Soweto (population 1.7 million) are surprised to find a friendly and safe atmosphere. Soweto Bicycle Tours range from two hours to full days, and take you to historical sites all over the township. Visit the former, humble brick home of Nelson Mandela, the site of the Soweto uprisings, a workers hostel, and even an authentic shebeen, where you can grab a traditional beer and talk to the locals.

9. Helsinki

Exploring a city by bike often reveals far more of a city than by foot or car, but there’s another advantage as well. It’s cheap, which comes in handy when touring a notoriously expensive city like Helsinki. The city has 1100 km of bike routes that are popular with residents as well as visitors. If you get tired, it’s reassuring that transporting your bike on the local trains and metro carry no additional fees. There are 27 Home District routes designed to help you explore key historical, cultural and archaeological areas of interest. Unfortunately, Helsinki recently suspended its City Bike program, but head to Greenbike on Bulevardi, or Ecobike next to the Finnair Stadium, for reasonably priced rentals.

10. Montreal

My first night in Montreal ended up in a karaoke bar. It was a warm night, so at 1am in the morning, a local friend decided to make good on her promise to show me Old Montreal. We borrowed bikes and hit the 15km-long paved bike lane on the Lachine Canal. We continued onto the empty streets of Old Montreal, discovering its secrets around each corner. The cobblestone on Saint-Paul, the neon-blue floodlights of the Notre Dame Basilica, the blue Quebec flag flying over Parisian-style art galleries, cafes and bars. The streets were all but deserted, but the air was tingling with culture. Montreal felt like Salome dropping her veils, just for me. Fortunately you no longer need a local friend to provide the bikes. Montreal has Bixi, a successful public bike program, where you can rent one of 5000 bikes at over 400 stations around the city with the swipe of a credit card.

10. Chiang Mai

I had a blast exploring Chiang Mai with the help of a city bike program called Mobike. Easy to use with an app connecting to the bike via bluetooth (and tracking your rides to record your calorie-burn and carbon-saving), Mobikes are inexpensive, convenient, and a great way to explore the Old City’s amazing temples. There are two types of bikes, and you definitely want to pick out the orange ones with the larger basket. It’s a very smooth ride and comfortable in the saddle. Although they have an automatic night light, the silver ones are much lighter and unstable to ride. With its flat roads and many alleys, Chiang Mai is definitely a city made for biking around.

Wined and Dined in the Douro

Portugal’s Douro Valley offers discerning bucket listers more than just fine wines. Explore ancient vineyards on misty terraces, stroll through historic towns, dine like royalty and stay in hotels ranging from modern fortresses to 17th century villas. I’ve long said Portugal is the best deal going in Western Europe: all the cobblestone without the price of Italy, France or Spain. Portuguese wines offer great value, and so is the country itself. Below are some images from my visit to tick this one off The Great Global Bucket List:

View from the town
of Amarante.

And yes, the place does look EXACTLY like a postcard.

The manicured garden at the stunning and historic Hotel Casa da Insua. The swans came to say hello.

Autumn Grapes: The leaves change colour with the season, but the grapes stay ripe and juicy.

Walking amongst the organic grapes at Solar de Merufe

98 Points! 16 glasses in one wine tasting sitting at Paço dos Cunhas de Santar

Cobblestone glory:
A cold fall night through the narrow streets on the way to Paço dos Cunhas de Santa.

Billionaire Playboy Ken Hegan approaches the light under a canopy of vines.

Terraces in the Doura Valley. Because of their design and age, all the grapes in the region are hand picked.

Two hours off the red-eye from Toronto to Lisbon, lunch is served in the dining room at Quinta de Azevedo in the Vinho Verde region.

Soft sheep cheese, fresh fruit, great wine, and get a load of the weird faces in the vase here at Quinta da Fata

Quinta do Noval makes some of the finest port money can buy. And like many other producers in the region, all their grapes are crushed by foot in rooms much like this.

I spent Halloween night with the old world elegance of Hotel Casa da Insua, complete with its spooky old chapel.

I can not get the Six Senses Douro Valley out of my head. A stylish modern wing is attached to a more traditional hotel overlooking the Douro. I remember concrete and low lit decor, fantastic artwork, stylish rooms, a magical fountain indoor pool and subtle fragrance seeping from the tunnel like hallways. It’s been called one of the best hotels in the world, and certainly left that impression on me.

Click here for more information on visiting Portugal’s Douro Valley.